Sunday, July 7, 2013
Website updates
Hamilton Tile and Stone is continuously working to update our website. Of course its just me, but if I don't add the right words, Google is going to skip right on past lol. I've got some new pics and over the next few days I'll try to get them posted. You can see some of the tile showers, tile floors, and tile back splash's at www.Hamiltontileandstone.com
Wednesday, January 18, 2012
Laticrete Hydroban
www.Hamiltontileandstone.com....Looking Back at a job I am still proud of
This is a prep job I did for a project to be tiled with Oceanside Glass. Slightly over killed, but adequate to me. The walls of the fountain are concrete block and the floor is floated with dry pack cement.
First I ground down all joints on the block wall with a grinder and tile blade to smooth out the mortar. Second, I skim coated the block wall with Laticrete 254 Platinum. I let that layer dry and went over it with a scraper to knock down trowel ridges. I then added another layer of Lat 254. Let that dry and scraped, followed by the same steps one more time. Each step successively smoothing the wall until my six foot straightedge showed less than 1/16" variance in plane.
Next I floated the fountain floor in deck mud to create a perfectly flat substrate. There is no need for pitch with anti-vortex drains and a pump system. After cutting the stub pipes at the proper elevations and capping with the appropriate fittings I then skim coated the dry pack once with Lat 254 to make a nice smooth surface.
After creating smooth and flat surfaces I added several layers Laticrete Hydroban and scrim fabric embedded into the wet liquid membrane. It is not required technically, but I felt more comfortable adding cheap insurance. After allowing the Hydroban to dry overnight I skim coated the entire area to be tiled one more time with Lat 254 to protect the water proofing while I worked on it. This is a pic of my water test, and that was my best explanation as to why it looks white....and not green ;) You will find the finished pictures of this fountain on my website under the portfolio tab.
This is a prep job I did for a project to be tiled with Oceanside Glass. Slightly over killed, but adequate to me. The walls of the fountain are concrete block and the floor is floated with dry pack cement.
First I ground down all joints on the block wall with a grinder and tile blade to smooth out the mortar. Second, I skim coated the block wall with Laticrete 254 Platinum. I let that layer dry and went over it with a scraper to knock down trowel ridges. I then added another layer of Lat 254. Let that dry and scraped, followed by the same steps one more time. Each step successively smoothing the wall until my six foot straightedge showed less than 1/16" variance in plane.
Next I floated the fountain floor in deck mud to create a perfectly flat substrate. There is no need for pitch with anti-vortex drains and a pump system. After cutting the stub pipes at the proper elevations and capping with the appropriate fittings I then skim coated the dry pack once with Lat 254 to make a nice smooth surface.
Saturday, November 27, 2010
I've added tons of pics to my portfolio
I've created a new wordpress website and today finally added almost 70 pics to my portfolio. www.hamiltontileandstone.com
Thursday, September 30, 2010
An additional pic of the listello in my last blog
An up close pic of the listello from the shower in my last blog during the setting phase of the project.
Monday, September 27, 2010
Creating the ideal setting substrate
The mud shower: By Hamilton Tile and Stone
One of the most challenging things when setting a tile shower, is dealing with lippage, and creating plumb walls and jambs. While there are methods such as the "Dot" method used to accommodate an uneven substrate, mud work creates a flat plane to adhere your tiles to by fixing irregularities in the construction of walls and floors by flattening from the surface inward.
Float strips are typically made of redwood lattice strips approximately 1&1/2" wide by 1/4" thick. These can be cut to different lengths as needed. A screed of mud is placed vertically while working towards creating a plumb wall. We place the float strip into the soft vertical screed of mud and push it in with a level. Carefully adjusting either the top end or the bottom end until the bubble in the level is dead center. Having true plumb walls makes cutting the tile easier, as well as giving a more uniform and professional look.
The ability to create specific dimensions with mud can allow for amazing finished results. While some may over look simple things, such as square walls....or a bench that is on a true 45%. Maybe a shower floor set in 1/2" mosaic which its grout lines follow consistently along the wall on all sides. These are a few areas the more discerning customer will not be able to argue with. How is this done? With the invaluable tools of our trade of course. A tape measure checks the float strips to check for absolute parallel.
A 6' straight edge placed along float strips can be used in combination with a speed square to achieve a bench on a true 45% angle. The tape measure is used to parallel off of the speed square.
A closer picture gives a better view:
Learning mud work can be a challenge, and it can and also be rewarding. There are methods that are easier, but none I would rather set tile on.
This is travertine and absolute black granite. The shower floor is 1/2" travertine mosaic. Full tile side to side on the shower floor and full diagonal halves at each bench ;)
One of the most challenging things when setting a tile shower, is dealing with lippage, and creating plumb walls and jambs. While there are methods such as the "Dot" method used to accommodate an uneven substrate, mud work creates a flat plane to adhere your tiles to by fixing irregularities in the construction of walls and floors by flattening from the surface inward.
The ability to create specific dimensions with mud can allow for amazing finished results. While some may over look simple things, such as square walls....or a bench that is on a true 45%. Maybe a shower floor set in 1/2" mosaic which its grout lines follow consistently along the wall on all sides. These are a few areas the more discerning customer will not be able to argue with. How is this done? With the invaluable tools of our trade of course. A tape measure checks the float strips to check for absolute parallel.
A 6' straight edge placed along float strips can be used in combination with a speed square to achieve a bench on a true 45% angle. The tape measure is used to parallel off of the speed square.
This is travertine and absolute black granite. The shower floor is 1/2" travertine mosaic. Full tile side to side on the shower floor and full diagonal halves at each bench ;)
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